Rethinking elasticity: Elastic bands made from natural rubber for fashion and design
Table of contents:
- Introduction
- The challenge: microplastics and synthetic elastic bands
- Our solution: elasticity from natural rubber
- Focus on materials: natural rubber and selected natural and cellulose fibres
- Applications in Fashion and Product Design
- Function, Lifespan and Material Cycle
- Benefits for Businesses and Design Processes
- Conclusion: Elasticity starts with the Choice of Material
- About CHARLE premium haberdashery
1. Introduction
What actually holds our world together? On a small scale, it is often the things we barely notice – a rubber band that keeps a waistband in place, closes a notebook or protects a sleeve. Yet behind these everyday helpers lies a material issue that is often overlooked: many conventional elastic bands contain synthetic materials such as polyester, polyamide or elastane. During use and washing, synthetic fibre particles can be released from these.
At CHARLE, we have developed an alternative to elastic bands containing synthetic elastic fibres: elastic bands in which natural rubber provides the elasticity and selected textile fibres form the outer layer. Depending on the design, we use, for example, organic cotton or TENCEL™ Lyocell. The focus here is on how function, choice of materials and design can be combined in narrow elastic textiles.
2. The challenge: microplastics and synthetic elastic bands
Elastic bands are among the standard, invisible components used in textile and product design. They must be reliably stretchable, hard-wearing and dimensionally stable. Synthetic materials such as polyester, polyamide and elastane are frequently used for this purpose.
Textiles made from synthetic fibres can release fibre particles during various stages of their life cycle. When washed, these can enter the wastewater as microplastics. The European Commission identifies textiles made from synthetic fibres as one of the main sources of the unintentional release of microplastics and points out that such releases can occur at various stages of the textile life cycle.
This raises the question for companies and designers: which materials can replace synthetic components in elastic bands without compromising on the required functionality?
The choice of materials for elastic bands therefore warrants careful consideration right from the product development stage. Small components in particular – which are often barely visible – can play a key role in determining the material composition of a textile product. Natural rubber, combined with selected textile fibres, offers a different approach to the development of narrow elastic textiles.
3. Our solution: elasticity from natural rubber
In our elastic bands, natural rubber provides the elasticity. The rubber threads are either coated with textile fibres or woven together with them to form a band. Depending on the design, materials such as organic cotton or TENCEL™ Lyocell are used.
The development of such bands requires careful coordination of the material, design and intended function. Elongation, resilience, strength, feel and finish can all be influenced by the materials used and the band’s construction.
CHARLE has been developing and marketing elastic bands made from natural rubber since 2011. The bands are available for a range of applications in fashion and product design and, depending on their construction, can, for example, be sewn in, edged or used as a visible design feature.
They thus offer a further material option for product development and design where elasticity is required and synthetic elastic fibres are to be avoided.
4. Focus on materials: natural rubber and selected natural and cellulose fibres
The properties of our narrow fabrics begin with the selection of raw materials. Depending on the design, we combine natural rubber with organic cotton, TENCEL™ Lyocell or TENCEL™ Luxe. For bespoke designs, other natural fibres such as linen, hemp or silk can also be used at the customer’s request.
Natural Rubber
We use natural rubber, which is extracted from the latex of the rubber tree (Hevea brasiliensis), as the elastic component. Natural rubber is a renewable raw material.
The natural rubber we use comes from FSC®-certified rubber plantations. The FSC® certification applies exclusively to the plantations. The subsequent processing stages of the natural rubber are not FSC®-certified.
In addition, we receive an annual declaration from our rubber supplier confirming compliance with ILO Convention No. 182. This declaration confirms that the production and processing of the goods supplied are carried out without the use of exploitative child labour. This evidence takes the form of a self-declaration from the supplier.
Furthermore, the natural rubber used is certified to the OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100. The standard involves testing for harmful substances against specified limit values.
The requirements of the European REACH Regulation on chemicals are also taken into account.
Organic Cotton
Depending on the design, we use organic cotton for both elastic and non-elastic ribbons.
We distinguish between GOTS-certified ribbons and ribbons that contain GOTS-certified cotton. Some of our non-elastic ribbons are GOTS-certified as finished products. For other ribbons, we use cotton for which GOTS certificates are available from the respective suppliers. In these cases, the certification relates to the cotton used and not to the finished product.
TENCEL™ Lyocell and TENCEL™ Luxe
TENCEL™ Lyocell and TENCEL™ Luxe are cellulose-based materials from Lenzing. TENCEL™ Lyocell is a regenerated cellulose fibre made from wood pulp. TENCEL™ Luxe is a cellulose-based filament yarn.
Depending on the type of strap, we use TENCEL™ Lyocell and/or TENCEL™ Luxe, for example, to cover the natural rubber.
Je nach Bandausführung setzen wir TENCEL™ Lyocell und/oder TENCEL™ Luxe beispielsweise zur Ummantelung des Naturkautschuks ein.
In the case of ribbons containing Lenzing fibres, Lenzing verifies the authenticity of the Lenzing fibres used in the finished ribbon. We hold certificates from Lenzing for the ribbons that have undergone this verification.
Material and Function
The choice of material combination depends on the specific application and the desired properties of the tape. These include, for example, elasticity and resilience, tear resistance, sewing properties, as well as feel and look.
In the case of bespoke developments, additional fibres can also be tested and used in accordance with the requirements of the specific project.
The supporting documents and statements referred to are held by CHARLE and can be provided on request.
5. Applications in Fashion and Product Design
Elastic bands are extremely versatile – they can be used wherever materials need to be held together, adjusted or secured in a flexible manner. Whether visible or concealed, functional or decorative: elasticity is often a small detail that plays a major role in a product’s function.
In the fashion sector, our ribbons are used in ribbons are used in:
- Trouser waistbands, to allow for a flexible fit to the body
- Underwear and bras, where elasticity, skin contact and comfort play an important role
- Children’s clothing, where functionality, washability and the choice of materials used are key
- Outdoor and rainwear, for example to secure sleeves, trouser legs or hoods
- Footwear, to ensure flexibility when putting on and taking off the shoes, as well as when moving
- Accessories, such as hair bands or hats, where elastic properties are utilised for functional or design purposes
The areas of application are also diverse in product design:
- Notebooks and folders, for example as elastic fastenings
- Packaging, for example for sealing or securing
- Home textiles, for example as drawstrings for covers, seat cushions or textile products
- Bags and backpacks, as carrying straps or fastening solutions
Natural rubber enables the elastic function of the band. By combining it with different fibres, constructions, widths and stretches, the bands can be adapted to various applications and design requirements.
In the case of bespoke developments, the material composition, design and desired properties can be tailored jointly to the specific application.
6. Function, Lifespan and Material Cycle
A material designed for the biological cycle does not have to be short-lived. For us, therefore, recyclability does not begin only at the end of a product’s useful life. An elastic band must first and foremost reliably fulfil the function for which it was designed.
Function during use
In our elastic bands, natural rubber provides the elasticity. The properties of the finished band are defined by the interaction between the natural rubber, the fibres used and the specific band construction.
Key functional properties include, in particular, elongation and resilience, tear strength and dimensional stability. The manufacturing process, as well as the subsequent conditions of use and care, also influence a band’s performance.
Our straps are therefore developed and tested in accordance with their intended application. The aim is to ensure that the required function is maintained throughout the product’s intended service life.
Durability and biodegradability are not mutually exclusive: during use, the strap should fulfil its function for as long as possible. Biodegradation only becomes relevant under suitable conditions at the end of the product’s service life.
From raw materials to recycling
Right from the stage of selecting materials, we take into account what might happen to the materials used once they have served their purpose.
Natural rubber, organic cotton and selected cellulose-based fibres enable us to develop elastic straps with a view to a biological material cycle. In doing so, the material composition, construction, use and the conditions at the end of the product’s life must be considered together.
Our circular cycle diagram illustrates this approach: from the selection of raw materials through to production and use, right through to potential biological decomposition.
Biological degradation in a practical experiment
Together with Alpenwurm.at, we carried out a practical experiment to investigate how a finished elastic band behaves under composting conditions.
We tested an elastic band made from 79% organic cotton and 21%natural rubber under conditions simulating a natural garden compost environment.
The organic cotton had completely decomposed after 82 days. After 371 days, the natural rubber had also largely decomposed. At this point, small, thin and porous remnants of the natural rubber were still present.
The experiment thus documents the progressive biological decomposition of the tested band under the conditions of this experiment. The results relate to the material composition examined and the documented experimental conditions.
The full experimental report, including the experimental setup, procedure and results, is available here: Compostability of an elastic band
Combine function and circulation
Our approach combines two requirements: the tape must fulfil its intended function whilst in use, whilst at the same time being designed in such a way that the material’s subsequent lifecycle is taken into account right from the stage of material selection.
For us, therefore, developing products for a biological material cycle does not simply mean making materials as rapidly degradable as possible. Rather, the key is to consider function, service life, material selection and end-of-life behaviour as an integrated whole.
7. Benefits for Businesses and Design Processes
Although the choice of material for elastic bands often concerns only a small component of a product, it can be relevant to the material concept, manufacturing process and subsequent communication. For companies wishing to replace synthetic elastic fibres with alternative material solutions, our elastic bands offer a range of options.
Careful selection of materials, right down to the last detail
When developing textiles, the focus is often initially on the main materials. Elastic bands, fastenings and other smaller components are easily overlooked.
Our bands make it possible to use natural rubber and selected natural and cellulose fibres specifically in these components as well. This means that the choice of materials for a product can be taken into account right down to the smallest components.
Material expertise for product development
The use of different materials is not simply a matter of replacing one fibre with another. Natural rubber, organic cotton and cellulose-based fibres each have their own properties, which must be taken into account during design, processing and application.
Our experience with elastic and non-elastic narrow textiles is therefore already incorporated into the selection and development of suitable band solutions.
Clear information and evidence
When communicating material properties, it is essential that claims can be substantiated transparently.
Depending on the product, we provide information on material composition, origin, as well as any existing certificates, test reports and supplier documentation. These can be used, for example, for product documentation, certification processes or your own communications.
The conclusions that can be drawn from this for a specific product depend on the relevant documentation and its scope.
Function and workmanship
Our fabrics are developed for use in textile products and the associated manufacturing processes. Properties such as stretch, elasticity, tear resistance, sewability, feel and appearance can be tailored to suit the specific fabric construction and application.
For bespoke developments, we tailor the material, construction and desired function to the requirements of the specific project.
Thinking about the material cycle
The choice of material can also influence the options available at the end of the product’s life cycle.
As described in Chapter 6, we investigated the biological degradation of an elastic band made from 79% organic cotton and 21% natural rubber in a practical composting trial. A direct link to the full trial report can be found there.
For us, this experiment is an example of how the question of a material’s subsequent fate can be incorporated into the product development process from the outset.
8. Conclusion: Elasticity starts with the Choice of Material
Elastic bands are often just a small component of a textile product. Nevertheless, it is worth taking a closer look at these functional details too: What materials are used? What function must they fulfil? What evidence is available? And what happens to the materials at the end of their useful life?
By combining natural rubber with selected natural and cellulose fibres, we are demonstrating an alternative approach to the development of elastic narrow textiles. This is not simply a matter of replacing one material with another. Material selection, construction, function, processing and the material’s subsequent lifecycle must be considered as a whole.
Our experience from product development and composting trials also demonstrates why service life and biological degradation should be considered together: a band must function reliably whilst in use. Only afterwards does it become relevant how the materials used can continue to change and degrade under suitable conditions.
For companies and product development, this approach opens up additional opportunities to consciously include even smaller textile components in the choice of materials. Existing certificates, tests and evidence provide a basis for transparently documenting and communicating material properties.
Elasticity is a functional detail – but one where material choices can make a difference.
9. About CHARLE premium haberdashery
CHARLE was founded in 2010. It all began with our own children’s fashion label, CHARLE sustainable kids fashion. Whilst developing the collection, we began to wonder how even small and often barely visible textile components could be designed differently.
As we could not find a suitable elastic band to meet our requirements, in 2011 we developed our first organic elastic band made from natural rubber and organic cotton – initially for use in our own collection. Step by step, this development gave rise to our current range of elastic and non-elastic narrow textiles.
Today, we develop and supply narrow fabrics for fashion, product design and other textile applications. In doing so, we work with materials including natural rubber, organic cotton, TENCEL™ Lyocell and TENCEL™ Luxe, as well as – for bespoke developments – other selected fibres.
In addition to our product range, we assist companies in developing bespoke ribbon solutions. We provide support throughout the entire process, from material selection and feasibility studies through to development and implementation. Queries regarding material properties, certificates and documentation may also form part of this collaboration.
Our experience in product development, textile technology and logistics enables us not only to consider the material itself, but also to take into account processing, procurement and practical implementation. Our services are complemented by worldwide shipping and the handling of export customs clearance.
Our aim is to work with companies to develop solutions in which material, function, design and the subsequent material journey are considered together from the very outset.